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Reviews

Edible British Columbia
Edible News Issue 9

It is not very often that we are left speechless by a restaurant or its menu, especially in a suburban location, but that was the case this week when we headed to White Rock for dinner. On the main strip of this waterside community are a multitude of restaurants, mostly independents that brave fierce competition and a very seasonal customer base. I had heard of Pearl on the Rock from a review by Mia Stainsby in the Vancouver Sun and have been meaning to get out there to check it out for some time, but the daunting drive from the North Shore on a week night during rush hour traffic always convinced me that downtown was a better choice. Well — I was wrong and I am sure to be making more frequent visits.

Pearl on the Rock is a small intimate room that is perfectly appointed and would not seem out of place in Yaletown, but stands alone in White Rock. The owners, Nicholas Popoff and his wife, are still in their mid-20’s, and they credit their success to Nicholas’ training with the Earl’s restaurant group. I credit his success to an incredible ability to offer some of the best service I have had in a restaurant anywhere. From the reservation through the departure, everything was top-rate, and we have not even discussed the food yet.

With a seafood-focused menu and a great wine list, it was hard to make a decision as to what to eat. Scrumpy sablefish with pulled pork and choucroute puree, poached Sechelt sturgeon with white asparagus, seaweed caviar and chive chantilly, a multitude of fresh oysters, but the winner for the evening were the pearl divers; a crispy coconut rice roll, weathervane scallops, arugula pesto and yuzu lime sauce. This place is worth fighting the traffic for!